Saint Louis 2008 : Trains, Talismans and Juggalos Part Two “The Do-Anything Say-Anything Zone”

[Photo Credit: Tod Seelie]

At the end of the last chapter I was riding in a gondola between Chicago and Saint Louis with Brodie and Leg. I had written last time that giving everybody acid wasn’t a good idea but that might not necessarily be true. We would have gotten pulled off the train and arrested either way and it certainly made the couple hours we spent locked in cement cells more entertaining. It also slightly reduced whatever possession charges I still have in Central Illinois because the acid was clearly packaged and not particularly well hidden.

As we approached a town called Sullivan the train began to slow down and Brodie was pretty sure it wasn’t siding. He figured that a motorist had seen us and called it in and said we would probably need to get ready to run. We hadn’t been super careless like the last ride I described but we had been peeking over the side a bit to look at the scenery. We mostly put our heads back down when we passed through yards, towns or busy roads – Brodie was a very experienced rider.

The train came to a stop with our car directly between two road crossings and local police SUVs were pulling up to both of them. This was when we realized that they knew exactly which car we were in and we must have been spotted by some kind of automatic camera pointed downward at the tracks as the trains came into town. There probably wasn’t too much we could have done about this besides lying motionless under our sleeping bags with the hope of blending in and that’s a pretty miserable way of riding.

We were just in the wrong kind of car – too much visibility.

There was nothing around but a field of knee-high corn and it was obvious that there was no point in running or trying to hide – plus we weren’t really in the mental state for that kind of thing. We threw our packs and bags over the side, hopped off and started rolling up the sleeping bags and getting ready to move. I also had an eighth of mushrooms and a single Adderall pill in my bag, drugs I’d been carrying for a while but never seemed to feel like taking, so I briefly considered either tossing them, hiding them or just eating it all. They were already jogging toward us with their guns out though so I decided to leave them where they were and hope that they’d be lazy about searching our bags.

The Sullivan Police had pictures of trains on their patches and I was thinking of using one as the header photo but it looks like they’ve changed the design and I couldn’t find any pictures of the old one. I got the impression that their town was quiet enough that all they really did was catch up freight riders. They were excitedly boasting to us and each other about how many they had managed to catch in the last week alone.

They seemed especially proud of having pulled off a group of Mexicans because then they got to hand them over to immigration. They’d probably just recently gotten the fancy automatic camera installed and since then it had been like shooting fish in a barrel. They made us put on our backpacks and then handcuffed us in the front so we could carry them over to the pickup truck they were going to transport us in:

Let them hoss their own shit!”

They told us that if we wanted we could wait for another form of transport instead of getting transported in a truck bed but we wanted to get the whole ordeal over with as quickly as possible. They had pulled up in SUVs but they probably didn’t want us getting their seats dirty. They made a lot of comments about how dirty we were, how we smelled and that sort of thing.

They took us to a tiny cement substation with a couple of cells for processing. The whole building was roughly the size of the public bathrooms found in parks and rest stops. Inside there was a desk with a computer, some long cement benches they handcuffed us to for processing, a few thin cells and a couple shower stalls. They constantly shuffled us between these spaces for the entirety of the time we were there so that two of us were never together long enough to talk to each other.

We had to leave our bags on the damp grass outside so they could search through them. There was a lady cop behind the computer while I was being processed and for whatever reason she was chatting me up. I forget how she worked this detail into the conversation, maybe she asked me where I was going and why and I told her I was headed to California to play a concert:

I used to live in Seattle. It was after the whole grunge thing was pretty much over but it was still pretty cool living there with all that history!”

“How’d you end up in a dead end town like this? You move out here for a guy or something?”

Ooof, don’t even get me started…”

She seemed like she was on the verge of passing me her phone number or asking if I wanted to go get a coffee when we were released until one of her male colleagues with rubber gloves on slammed all of my drugs onto the counter. I immediately took responsibility:

That’s all mine.”

She gave me a look like I had somehow betrayed her and didn’t talk to me again. She evidently didn’t know very much about the Seattle music scene she was excited to share a city with if she was shocked and offended by a relatively benign and harmless bag of mushrooms. The male cop went through the different baggies with me to identify their contents. I confirmed what the mushrooms and Adderall pill were but I also had a baggie of powdered Syrian Rue that looked like a generic brown powder.

I’d gotten everything from the self-proclaimed shaman guy that lived in Chicago who is mentioned in some other chapters. I’d made the mistake of buying things I didn’t really feel like taking just because they were hard to find and then carrying it around until it got me in trouble. I explained to him in detail what the powder was:

“That’s Syrian Rue, peganum harmala. it’s a naturally occurring MAO Inhibitor that is used to boost the efficacy of other psychotropic drugs but it doesn’t do much on it’s own. It isn’t currently scheduled by the DEA.”

He took my explanation at face value and separated the Rue from the things I could actually be charged for. I wondered afterward if I had said the other bags contained Turkey Tail Mushrooms and a Vitamin C tablet with the same level of conviction I could have gotten away with all of it but that probably would have been pushing my luck. At the very least the Adderall pill had an easily verifiable imprint.

Brodie’s photography monographs hadn’t been published yet but he had either done a few lucrative gallery shows at this point or gotten a decent advance from his representation and he offered to pay everybody’s bail or whatever they were calling the money to be allowed to leave. He stood by the desk with his debit card for a few minutes then concluding the charges he was able to creep by me and whisper into my ear that it sounded like “he was buying thousands of dollars in X-Men cards”.

Brodie would most likely not be “road ready” for several hours to come.

They had us all take showers before they cut us loose and made fun of the fact that nobody seemed to want to use the packets of harsh chemical shampoo they provided us with.

Leg threw out a clumsy and club footed excuse while emerging from her shower:

You see I just don’t really care for the toiletries, you know what I mean???”

Everybody was doing a pretty good job of just coming off like ditzy train riders and not letting on that we were tripping but Brodie did spend a suspiciously long time staring down into the drain. He later said that there were globs of something down there that looked like the liquid form of the T-1000 from Terminator 2. The cops smirked at him and attempted a joke:

You sure you didn’t consume some of those mushrooms before we picked you up?”

Brodie answered back both in a way that could be construed as evasive and in a somewhat robotic voice:

I’ve consumed mushrooms that come on pizza before…

The cops didn’t really push the issue. I guess they can’t really charge you for being under the influence of drugs except for maybe a public intoxication charge but there’s always the threat of being taken to a psychiatric hospital for 24 to 48 hours if they knew that you took LSD and feel like being extra. They didn’t do any of that.

They took us outside where we discovered that the contents of all of our packs were still spread out on the grass. During my heaviest years of magical ideation, roughly 2008 to 2012, there was a sequence of objects I came to view as magical talismans and essential tools for my practice. This included a silver plated pewter goblet, a conductor’s baton or wand, a rubber witches nose, a studded leather cap and a Ukrainian knife with a goat’s hoof handle that was supposed to be cursed.

At this early stage it would have been limited to the dagger with leather scabbard I used for the Living Hell performances and a small glass bottle in the shape of a maple leaf that I mixed my Florida Water with other fragrances in. Anyway the Sullivan police stole the dagger. None of them ever mentioned anything about it and the part of Illinois we were in was popular for hunting so it’s extremely unlikely that there would have been any law against me carrying it. One of them probably just thought it looked cool and decided to keep it – cops do that sort of thing constantly.

They loaded us into one of those prisoner transport vehicles that’s divided into two sections in the back – kind of like the trucks that dog catchers use. They did allow all of us to ride on the same side of it. Out of the three of us Brodie was clearly the least psychedelically experienced and he had been doing an admirable job of holding it together but his self control was starting to slip. He turned to me:

Are we in the do-anything say-anything zone?”

The back of the truck was separated from the cab where the cop was driving but there was a tiny window so he could see and hear us. He smirked into the rear view mirror. I told Brodie to hang on just a little longer:

No we’re not quite in the do-anything say-anything zone yet but we should get there as soon as we leave this truck.”

The cop was driving us to the next county over so that if we did get in trouble again it would be another department’s problem. He knew that our immediate destination was Saint Louis so he gave us general directions to get to Effingham from where he dropped us off. He said it would probably be easiest to find a ride heading to Saint Louis from there and departed with a final piece of advice:

Guys, don’t get on another train. Catch a ride or hoof it but if you get back on a train you’ll just get caught again.”

He drove off. Brodie let out a massive sigh of relief:

Holy Shit! I am high! I’m so high! I’m tripping my ass off!”

Leg was smiling to herself:

A pig said hoof it!

I put a reassuring arm around Brodie’s shoulder and led him over to a small pile of broken chunks of asphalt so he could climb up on it and jump off a couple of times. I thought it would help him feel more in control the same way I used to jump off of a 60 foot pylon into the Mississippi River every morning as a quick wake up while the Rockaway was docked at Cement Land. He was basically fine to do whatever but we needed to start hitchhiking so the sun wouldn’t go down on us in another small farm town and unless we got a “hip” ride this would probably go smoother if we didn’t talk about how high we were in front of the drivers.

It’s possible to hitch hike without a sign but if there’s any way of making one you’ll be a lot better off. As long as the letters are large, bold and legible passing motorists have no choice but to read them and then they’re already thinking about you. It’s the magic power of the written word – try to look at a word in a language you understand and not read it, it’s impossible. Riding trains always involves some degree of hitchhiking if only to get to and from the remote train yards so we would have already been carrying cardboard and sharpies.

Making a sign is a bit of a gamble because writing the name of a distant destination city can get you lucky with somebody who’s going the entire way but it can also cause potential rides to not pick you up because they don’t think they’re going far enough. For this reason I generally like to just write a Cardinal direction, like “South” in this case, but I might have just written “Effingham” as it wasn’t that far. Generally speaking you want to keep moving even if a ride is barely going any distance but there are some exceptions.

You wouldn’t take a ride from a truck stop if they were only going a couple of exits and potentially dropping you off where there isn’t a truck stop for example.

It took a couple of rides to get to Effingham but I can only remember the first one. A crew cut army looking guy took us down the road a bit to an AM PM. I’m not sure how Brodie ended up in the front seat. Leg and I were a couple at the time but I almost always take the front seat when hitchhiking with a group because I’m good at talking to strangers if that’s what a ride wants. The guy attempted to make conversation:

It’s gotta be rough hitchhiking in this heat, huh?”

Brodie was staring at his He-Man and the Masters of the Universe sleeping bag:

It beats fighting monsters all day…”

The driver didn’t try to make any more conversation. It was almost dark by the time we got to Effingham. Effing Effingham – I wound up in this same town again a few years later and when the story gets there you’ll see why I have a little more hatred for the place than most of the anonymous small towns I’ve drifted through. We tried to find a ride but eventually we had to consider finding a place to sleep.

The local homeless tweaker guy named Kenny had noticed our arrival and offered his advice:

You’re probably thinking of sleeping in the woods out back but you don’t wanna do that and I’ll tell you why: there’s snakes and spiders and who know’s what back there. What you wanna do is go sleep underneath that freeway bridge over there: it’s still windy but it’s dry and there’s no spiders and nobody will bother you. How do I know this? Because I slept there last night and the night before that and I’ll be sleeping there tonight.”

The moment he walked away we all agreed that it sounded like a very bad idea to go sleep where Kenny was. He might have been just trying to help but he seemed a little too eager to have us over there and know where we were sleeping. We could have easily outnumbered and overpowered him but it just seemed like a bad scene.

I think we just grabbed some cardboard from the dumpster full of flattened boxes and laid it out next to the dumpster and slept on it. This wouldn’t have worked long term but we were only staying the night. We had talked to a truck driver around midnight who’d said that he was heading to Saint Louis first thing in the morning and he could take us. He also said that he had a free shower ticket for buying a certain amount of diesel he wasn’t going to use and asked if any of us wanted it.

I was surprised when Brodie took him up on it considering how recently we had showered in the police station but he said that he’d always wanted to see what the truck stop showers looked like. He seemed to just be genuinely interested in big rig trucks and truck culture: a couple of years later he was working as a heavy duty diesel mechanic and the last time I talked to him he had started a transportation company and was driving one himself.

Not too far into the next morning we were dropped off on the Saint Louis side of the Chain of Rocks Bridge which is pretty much across the street from Cement Land. Not too far away a handful of old cabooses sat on a disused portion of track hidden behind walls of overgrown vegetation. Some people had started staying on them during the final days of the Rockaway but now Brodie, Alexis and Jacki had moved in full time ever since The Garden of Bling got burned.

Jacki and Alexis had gotten a couple of bantam chickens, I think their names were Chicken Nugget and Lenny Kravitz, and spent most of their time watching the chickens fight and dig up bugs. It seems like a missed opportunity that it wasn’t “Henny Kravitz” but it was probably a rooster – the kind with big hair and bell bottoms made of feathers. Bob Cassilly was getting frustrated that people from the rafts were still living on a piece of property he eventually intended to develop but they were out of the way and I don’t think he ever got around to kicking them off.

While I was exploring some of the surrounding overgrowth I must have disturbed a bumblebee’s tiny hive and it attacked and stung me. It doesn’t hurt nearly as much as a honeybee’s sting but they don’t die from stinging either and they can do it over and over. I wasn’t wearing a shirt and it directed its serial assaults to the spot where Christ’s fifth wound is – it looked like it was pelvic thrusting against me as it stung me over and over. I was too shocked and surprised to think about brushing it off until it had gotten a good five jabs in.

It kind of feels like a dull ache combined with a slight burning – maybe like a combination sunburn and Charlie Horse.

Brodie was staying in Saint Louis but me and Leg would be continuing onto the Bay Area. I forget if the original plan was to ride trains the whole way but we went to a Kinko’s near the arch so I could make us a pair of counterfeit Greyhound Passes. The new plan was to take a bus to Amarillo, Texas and catch a hot shot to Northern California from there. Brodie photocopied a few pages and maps from his Crew Change and gave us the phone number for a friend of his called LBK.

Amarillo, now that is a seriously weird town. I’ll get into it next time.

https://zerstyrschonheit.home.blog/

Los Angeles 2008 : “You can play all the wrong notes. Just play them on time”

[photo credit: Tod Seelie]

The last piece I put up was my hundredth post on here so I wanted to do something special to commemorate one hundred posts. One idea I had was to take an event that someone else I knew had almost as clear a memory of as I did and have them write up their own recollections of the night/show/party whatever and then post both of our recollections together but do it double blind so neither of us could read the other person’s memories before typing up our own.

I still think this is a great idea – if anyone has strong recollections of something I haven’t covered yet and would like to try this give me a shout.

My other idea was to go back and rewrite the introductory piece about going to see The Make-Up in 1999. It might not even be clear to my newer readers that this was the introductory piece but it was the first thing I wrote since BAD FISH several years ago and the device I used to kick off this entire Winter writing project. I was messing with the dates for a bit as a quick hack to put the pieces in the order I wanted but I decided to stop doing that. A friend and mentor whose advice and constructive criticism was instrumental in building both my confidence and momentum at the beginning of this voyage had always said that it was the weakest piece, and it had already gone through a couple of rewrites, so I always figured it would need some adjusting.

When I went back and actually read it again I was struck with how much my voice has evolved and changed over these hundred entries and I found myself mystified and baffled by my earlier overly ornamentative style. Attacking this piece as an editor would feel like I was pulling the legs off of some kind of fragile insect – they say that to write and edit effectively one must “kill your darlings” but as far as I could tell it was already dead. Much like I did with BAD FISH, I opted to leave it pinned to the page as a specimen and curiosity.

I fixed a couple of obvious grammatical errors and adjusted the year but I mostly left it in the form it was originally written in. To measure anything you need a starting point and that piece will serve as origin on the graph of my literary attainment. There is one small detail that needs addressing however – in that piece I made an absurdly empty promise to deliver these various tableaux as a background character. The truth is that I was never a fly on the wall but always a fly in the ointment and the only way to deliver these accounts is the way they happened – with me conspicuously buzzing right in the center of things.

The last bit of business I want to take this moment to deal with is the title – Adventures in the Undiscovered Interior of Underground America. Barkev had introduced me to a book called Adventures in the Unknown Interior of America by a Spaniard named Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca who became stranded on a failed expedition in 1527 and spent the next eight years living and traveling among indigenous groups who, for the most part, had never seen another European.

The book reads a bit like an ethnography, a bit like a travelogue and a bit like a picaresque novel. When I made the decision that I would be writing up my experiences and stories with what I’ve been referring to as Underground America it seemed like the perfect reference and organizing principle. An entire hidden landscape that pulsed beneath the surface but to it’s architects, initiates and participants the most vital thing in the world. Even in the ‘90s when the term “alternative” was on every music executive’s tongue it lay beneath the trends – the alternative to alternative.

With all of that out of the way I’d like to jump right into telling a story. 2007 to 2008 was an absurdly busy year for me. In Winter I was part of the crew that was laboring to get The Garden of Bling river-worthy while most hands were abandoning the Miss Rockaway Armada project and dismantling the other crafts. To deal with the Lower Mississippi we needed a higher power outboard motor but we would also need to attach a larger transom to the disintegrating plywood of the raft to use one.

Luckily we met one of the archetypical junk sculptor welders found in every post-industrial city living off of Cherokee Street in Saint Louis who was happy to help us and let us use all his fancy tools. He was just about meticulous enough to be a serial killer – he only wore jeans and plaid flannels, he only drank Jimmy Buffet Landshark beer and he only ate stews and chilis he’d made with venison he hunted himself and kept in a big rectangular freezer. I’m going to take a wild guess that he probably killed it all during bow season.

Everything we did was fueled by Sparks which was still available in the highly caffeinated version. Me and Alexis had already bought used wetsuits to go into the freezing water and try to replace the plywood bottom that had been scraped off in successive beachings. I might have explained this before but I’ll explain it again: the rafts didn’t have anything like an airtight hull. They floated on pontoons that were essentially plywood boxes stuffed with styrofoam.

With the bottom missing my favorite analogy was a bowl full of cheerios turned upside down in a bathtub. In this analogy just pretend like the cheerios can’t get soggy – their natural buoyancy keeps the bowl afloat and the edges of the bowl keep the cheerios trapped underneath. If the bowl is rocked by waves or wakes a few of the cheerios drift free. The wakes of passing barges were a constant reality on this section of the Mississippi so chunks of styrofoam, the allegorical cheerios in this situation, were starting to fill the water and litter the beach.

We had a name for our efforts to replace the bottom while floating, The Garden of Bling Dive Team, but we didn’t have much progress or material success. We were trying to drive lag bolts into the two inch edges of 2 x 8s but with the lumber completely water logged and the necessity of driving the bolts upward underwater while being rocked by constant wakes we weren’t really getting anywhere.

We did the same thing for our efforts to install the transom – we took pictures for an imaginary metal band called Transom. I wrote a song about the fact that I always had to retrieve dropped tools from the water because I had a wetsuit and I was the tallest:

“Why does metal always sink?

Why’s the River fucking stink?

Holy Shit I’m in the drink again!”

By November none of it was working and I decided to take the cat we’d found, Night Beaver, and go back to Chicago. I wasn’t gone long when I heard that Harrison had broken his back doing a triple flip off of the nearby train bridge while wearing a wetsuit. This might sound serious but he pretty much bounced back from it without issue. This is the thing with Harrison – he’s constantly reckless but when it comes time for life altering injuries or serious consequences it slides off him like mercury and lands on the people around him.

Usually women.

Because it was 2007 and we were underneath a major train bridge agents from the Department of Homeland Security were constantly coming by and expressing how much they’d love it if we were gone. The raft was registered however and we qualified as a “vessel in distress” so they couldn’t make us leave. Boat and water law is different from normal law or even weird Mexico and Louisiana law – when I think about it I picture a yellowed scroll with decaying edges and a red wax seal.

Anyway everything’s legal when nobody’s looking. With everybody off the raft at the same time to check on Harrison in the hospital it was easy for somebody to set it on fire. I’m not necessarily saying it was DHS that did it but they did want us to disappear. Scrappers used to come down to that river bank to burn the insulation off of copper wires so the scrapyard would give them a better rate. Maybe they burned the Bling.

Alexis and I used to talk about burning it once we realized that it wasn’t going to be earning the Coast Guard’s approval for safe navigation or making it down the river. I was mainly upset that somebody had beaten us to it.

So 2008 came around. I was probably in Chicago for New Year’s Eve. Maybe it was the party at Heaven Gallery or somewhere close to it where I fell and chipped my front tooth on the ice outside. There was a phenomenon at this party we referred to as “Frat-Bro Valhalla”. The way the space was set up there was a special balcony or mezzanine full of frat-bros that seemed to be looking down on the rest of us. I couldn’t figure out how they had gotten to that spot or if it was all the same party or anything else.

I got drunk and fell and chipped my tooth on the ice outside.

I made it down to New Orleans in time for Mardi Gras and then to Miami for the International Noise Conference and a couple months later onto The Bus for the Living Hell tour. Out to California for the Living Hell reunion and then to Australia with my sisters. I played the first two Bleak End at Bernie’s shows in Brisbane and Sydney. Sydney is a beautiful city but freezing cold during Australia’s Winter which happens to be Summer in the United States.

The skies are full of sulfur crested cockatoos in the daytime and flying foxes at night. Leg had asked me to bring her back a cockatoo feather. After watching a fairly awful modernized production of Don Giovanni at the Sydney Opera House, it featured playboy bunnies and simulated fellatio, I spent the rest of the night walking the Botanical Gardens. At dawn I found it – a perfect white feather with just a trace of bright banana yellow along it’s edge.

It seemed too important to entrust to International Mail and Leg had moved up to Portland. It was getting harder to use the counterfeit Greyhound passes. I’m not sure if they changed something in their computers or the station agents were just catching on to us but it was getting to a point where the stations in big cities would turn me away and I’d have to try all the little satellite stations until one worked.

I stopped trying to use them in 2008. I’m sure a lot of people threw in the towel even earlier and some must have dragged it on even longer. It feels unlikely but I’d love to hear that somebody is making it work in 2023.

Anyway I accidentally got ahead of myself a little bit because I thought that the quick West Coast tour with counterfeit Greyhound passes happened when I came back from Australia but I checked a date and it would have had to have been before.

I bought my Boss Dr. Groove drum machine from Rand in Chicago at the end of the bus tour – I used to joke that it used to have a bit of a drinking problem because it would have drinks spilled on it and get knocked off of tables every time Carpet of Sexy played. When I first started writing on it only a few of the buttons would stick but it eventually stopped working altogether.

Bekah had been the other founding member of our rap group Chew on This and had just moved out to Los Angeles. I had only written a couple of Bleak End songs so we played mixed sets with half Bleak End and half Chew on This material. I have no idea what we billed it as but the shows were probably too last minute for us to be on fliers anyway. Cole from Deep Jew came along and played a second keyboard.

The detail that fixed the dates for me is that we went to GLOW – a public arts rave on and around the Santa Monica Pier. We weren’t playing this event but we were carrying all of our gear with us and I had one of the bigger keyboards tucked under my arm. Someone yelled out the window of a passing van that I looked like Bob Marley which was a little confusing as I was tall, white, wearing heavy eye makeup, didn’t have dreadlocks and was carrying an instrument I didn’t think he was particularly known for.

I guess it was an example of “out-group homogeneity” – to some people the entire diverse landscape of performed music must seem like the same thing.

I had a friend from the rafts named Jaci who lived down the street from the pier, I’ve written a little bit about her sister Jacki who happens to be in this chapter’s photo, and we stashed all the gear at the apartment she shared with her mom. Then I gave everybody acid which turned out to not be the best idea. Cole and I were old hands with the stuff but the girls were fairly, if not completely, new to it. I probably should have split a single hit between Jaci and Bekah but you live and learn as they say.

The plan was simple: spend the night having fun tripping at the public arts rave and catch a bus toward the Greyhound first thing in the morning to travel on to San Francisco and our next show. The moment the drugs kicked in both Jaci and Bekah freaked out and ran off so me and Cole ended up in damage control mode – too busy tracking them down and making sure they were ok to even notice that we were tripping ourselves. I do faintly remember a tiny bit of light shows and dancing but most of the night was spent searching and worrying.

We found Bekah sitting in the shadows underneath the pier, like among the pylons right when the sand hits the water. She was staring off into space and it took quite a while before she was ready to speak. Finally she offered this small glimpse of her internal world at that moment:

Filas… They’re cool, right?”

I agreed that they were indeed very cool shoes and we spent most of the night on the sand and in the shadows. Carl Cheng’s Santa Monica Art Tool was on display – a giant concrete roller that leaves behind a topographical map of the city in the sand. In function it was quite similar to the cylindrical seals made of lapis lazuli and other precious stones in Ancient Mesopotamia. They rolled across clay envelopes leaving behind decorative scenes that doubled as proof that the contents hadn’t been tampered with.

The night had been planned to coincide with a grunion run and it may have also been a Full Moon. Me and Cole were splashing around in the tide looking for the fish, who seemed to have missed the memo, and he made some kind of joke about the grunions arriving as spectators to see the crowds of oddly dressed people assembled on the beach. The concept set off an avalanche of questions in my head about what it would like if the participants in any kind of sub-cultural spectacle were outnumbered by the spectators, or even worse if only spectators showed up.

The question only seems to have become more poignant in the intervening years as live shows have become seas of recording phones and cameras and documentation seems to have superseded experience as a primary motivation. It was very much on my mind when I finally made it to the Folsom Street Fair after years of hearing about wanton displays of BDSM-themed role play. It felt like everyone was there to gawk but nobody was there to be the spectacle.

I’ve also seen the other side of this equation being thrown out of balance when I went to SXSW in 2011. Obviously people show up to the festival just to watch bands but for the small shows I was playing it was nothing but artists hoping to be seen and noticed. The way I figured the only point to playing these shows was rolling the dice to see if you would end up forming a relationship with the band that played directly before or after you. Nobody else was going to see you – everybody had booked five or more shows a day and had to leave the moment they could take their gear down.

Just like my first story about The Make-Up I feel like the Underground is most vital when everybody is acting as both participant and spectator and the line between the two isn’t particularly distinct. I’m sure there are places where this still is happening and it makes sense that I’m not immediately privy to them. I’m forty-two years old and I live on a mountain in the middle of nowhere but I still have faith in the youth.

Back to the story we had found Bekah but we wouldn’t be able to play our next show without our instruments. We weren’t able to get Jaci on the phone during the night and now it was going direct to voicemail. I found out later that she had thrown her phone away in a momentary paranoid freak out. Google had one of it’s offices just down the street from her house and her and Jacki had a running joke where they would approach the receptionist with inane requests:

Ahem… Naked pictures of Angelina Jolie please.”

In 2008 the special cars that drove around capturing images for Google Street View were still a common and conspicuous sight, this is when they had the special cameras on the roof that looked like soccer balls. There seemed to always be a lot of them in her section of Santa Monica – maybe the Google offices included a special garage that they were coming and going from. Anyway she was frustrated that none of the calls seemed to be going through and she thought the “Google Gang” was stalking her so she threw her phone into some bushes somewhere.

We didn’t know all of this but we knew we needed our instruments so the only thing to try was walking to her house and seeing if she was there. As we walked away from the Pier a group of cyclists started heckling us for being pedestrians. I tried to argue that walking had roughly the same ecological impact as biking but Cole came up with the following joke:

Oh yeah? Why do you think they call it a carbon footprint?”

Two blocks later we passed the same group loading all of these bikes into a pair of oversized vans. For all of their bluster cycling was evidently only a thing they did to cover the short mile between the party and easy to find parking spaces.

We knocked on Jaci’s door and after startling her mother’s creepy roommate we learned what had happened and were able to retrieve our keyboards. The longer lasting consequence was that Jaci and Jackie’s mother went from thinking I was an excellent chaperone and influence on her daughters to thinking that I was a very bad one. Not that it would matter much – neither Jaci or Jacki would be living with her for very much longer.

We caught the bus toward the Greyhound in accordance with the itinerary I had mapped out to get us to the San Francisco generator show in time to perform. An old wino who was evidently an experienced musician noticed our keyboards and offered this timeless advice:

You can play all the wrong notes. Every note the wrong note. Just play them on time.”

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West Virginia 2008 : The Bus Part One “This Beer! This Rock!”

This isn’t going to be the chapter where I lay down all the exposition about The Bus and the Living Hell tour but I should at least throw down a little bit of background. This wasn’t the regular style AC Transit bus called Larry that might’ve ended up lasting longer and hosting more shows than this earlier version: the totally tricked out one with plexiglass floors and an elevated loft in back that blew a piston on this tour and never quite made it out of Albion, Michigan. For either version the core concept is essentially the same – John Benson and a crew of collaborators install a bank of power wheelchair batteries underneath a stage in back to create a mobile concert venue.

There are two important things about this earlier bus that may or may not have been the case with Larry. I can only say definitively that I didn’t experience these things on the Larry bus. First off it had been converted to run on used vegetable oil. Everybody was doing these conversions during the first decade of the 2000s. For the earlier part it was a way to convert a resource that most of the world viewed as garbage into what was essentially free gasoline. Toward the later part the world had caught on and pumping out of random grease traps wasn’t always viewed as charitably.

This brings us to the second of the things: the original bus was an absolute cop magnet. Poking around behind restaurants to collect veggie oil without asking for permission didn’t help but there was also the fact that it was just plain weirder looking and the Living Hell tour brought us to some pretty remote sections of America. Whatever the cause I wouldn’t experience the same level of constant attention from law enforcement again until I moved to Tijuana as a guero.

Besides the supply issue that I already mentioned running the bus on vegetable oil was putting a lot of stress on it’s engine. Short trips around town when there had been plenty of time to find the best grease and make sure it was well filtered was pretty different from playing catch-as-catch-can in unfamiliar territory. Or maybe that wasn’t the problem at all – I know that the bus had done a whole other U.S. Tour before I was ever on it and it might have run on veggie just fine for the entirety of that one. Maybe it was just old and worn out, every engine in the world only works for so many miles.

By West Virginia we’d had to cancel a few consecutive shows and the bus was still acting iffy. I can’t remember the name of the West Virginia town but it had a Cummins service shop where John had decided we should try getting an oil change and we were going to have to wait overnight to get it. There was a shopping mall in town that was playing Iron Man in it’s movie theater, nobody went to see it but this detail helped me figure out what year it was.

There was a toy shop set up in the common area with a surprisingly good selection of plastic dinosaurs and prehistoric mammals – I bought a Glyptodon for my nephew and a local cop working security ended up ringing me up. The Glyptodon was similar but unrelated to the modern armadillos and about the size and shape of the cheapest tent at Target. I’ve done a little research into plastic prehistoric animals and come to the conclusion that this was probably the Scheich version that stopped production in 2011. All the best plastic animals come from Germany.

Behind the mall sat some fairly spectacular nature. A cliff leading downwards of a reddish material that you could reduce to dust with your bare hands if you had the time and energy. Off the top of my head I want to say shale but I’m not a geologist. The cliffs acted as a staircase to get down to a river and some sections of forest.

With nothing else to do we all went for a hike behind the mall. John Benson took a picture and put it on the bus Flickr so I’m including it here. You can see me in a fur coat and visor and Shon carrying his unicycle and Upper Dave bringing the party with a case of Milwaukee’s Best. It seemed like a good time for a beer so most of us settled into drinking them. The conversation devolved into a string of repetitive requests and queries centered on passing specific beers from specific rocks.

I really want to explain this so I’m going to just go into it in mind numbing detail. People were saying things like: Could you pass me that beer? This beer? No, that beer over on that rock. This rock? No, that rock. We were in a landscape that had been reduced to beers and rocks. Theoretically anybody could have just picked up and drank from any beer just like they could have crushed any of the rocks just by squeezing them but you know how it is: people want the one they were already drinking out of. Anyway I want you to understand the mind state that caused Vanessa to suddenly stand up and yell out:

This beer! This rock!”

Maybe it’s a “you had to be there” kind of thing or maybe it’s not even funny or interesting at all. I don’t think it matters that much whether you actually know the people in this story or not. Anyway she wasn’t talking about any specific beer or any specific rock. It was rhetorical.

I was taking LSD a lot at that time which basically meant I was always carrying LSD and selling LSD because that’s the only way to really make sure it will always be around and available. Selling LSD feels more like doing this weird kind of community service than being a drug dealer because the price always more or less stays the same and people will come complain if the LSD they bought six months ago didn’t work. It’s like putting on punk shows – it’s always supposed to be five dollars until the end of time and it’s not really about the money but like everything else it costs money.

Anyway I decided that it would be a good time to take some LSD and Shon with the unicycle wanted to take some too but nobody else felt like it. I don’t think I was selling it in that context – behind a mall in West Virginia wasn’t really the time or place to worry about money. So we wandered into the woods and everybody else drifted back toward the bus.

Once things started getting weird I was bouncing on fallen trees and peeling this thick lichen off of trees and eating it and just generally being a weirdo and it was all a bit much for Shon. He was kind of dissociating and just seemed to be moving toward a quiet introspective kind of thing so I left him in the woods and wandered back to everybody else and the bus.

Obviously the residents of the small town in West Virginia had noticed when a bus full of freaks showed up and then hung around the mall for a little while and then didn’t seem to be leaving town at nightfall. The police had been waiting for a pretext to come descend on us en masse and figure out exactly what we were up to. This turned out to be Upper Dave and Vanessa sneaking into some demonstration prefabricated homes to see what they looked like on the inside.

There might have been alarms or the police might have already been following them but they waited until they had walked all the way back to the bus before popping out to enforce the law. Talking to the police while tripping on LSD is either the worst possible thing in the world or really really fun depending on your personal level of control and experience. I had a feeling that it probably would have been the first one for Shon which is why it was fortunate that he had stayed behind in the woods but it was definitely the second one for me.

They seemed like they were afraid of us but not in a “might randomly shoot us” kind of way – they were just nervously standing together in a line and constantly adjusting the crotch area of their pants and spitting chewing tobacco on the ground. You know the way that cops stand: if you let your legs touch it means you’re gay or whatever. They were giving Dave and Vanessa a hard time and saying a lot of “what, you don’t know what a locked door means?” and then they offered us a deal: unless we let them search the bus and run everybody’s information they were going to arrest Dave and Vanessa for trespassing.

We picked the second option because even though I had a sheet of acid and somebody must have had some marijuana it seemed unlikely that they would actually find it. At some point Shon had called John Orlando on the cellphone and John told him the cops were there and his reaction made it clear that we had to make sure they didn’t interact because he wouldn’t have been able to handle it. The problem was they started asking all of us how many of us there were and people were giving inconsistent answers and they started to suspect we were hiding something.

We had to line up so they could run our identification information and see if anybody had any warrants even though it was obviously a waste of time as we wouldn’t have agreed to the option if anybody did. It got to my turn and I savored staring into the cop’s eyes like a predatory animal as he nervously spit on the ground and avoided my gaze. One of the cops asked me if I had bought a plastic armadillo and I told him it was called a Glyptodon. Dalton and John Orlando were shooting baskets on the back of the bus and I asked them if they were playing HORSE:

“No, PIG.”

We stared the cops down as we tossed the ball at the basket and they nervously adjusted their pants and spit and avoided our eyes and flinched every time the ball hit the metal rim and made a noise. When they searched John Benson he just so happened to have a tiny plastic figure of a police officer in his pocket. He hadn’t been carrying it for the whole tour – most likely he’d found it on the ground that very day. The cop did the thing where something they don’t entirely understand ends up in their hand and they look like they’re trying to will it into disappearing.

Actually when they had searched me I had a tiny bottle of White Flower in my pocket – a topical menthol rub for muscle aches if you’re not familiar. The cop asked me what it was and I told him it was Chinese analgesic ointment and he visibly flinched. Most likely he hadn’t understood the Greek derived name for pain relievers and was dismayed to think he was touching something designed for “butt stuff”.

Next it was time for the cops to run Jill’s background information but none of them would look at her and they kept telling her to go talk to the other officer until she had done a full circle and they were all just kind of looking down and nervously laughing: it was incredibly awkward. I’m sure things are still far from perfect in small towns in West Virginia but in 2008 most of the national conversations surrounding transgender identity hadn’t happened yet.

They couldn’t believe that they hadn’t found a giant pile of drugs anywhere on the bus so they went and got a drug sniffing dog to make sure. The dog was thrashing around nervously because of all the people and the smell of our dog Kloot and maybe a bit of stage fright. It kind of looked like a blur of eyes and teeth – it’s reasonable to think that the acid might have had something to do with that. Acid doesn’t smell like anything and Kloot’s smell was too strong for a little weed to get noticed but it did find somebody sleeping in the loft in the back of the bus.

We were so nervous about Shon nobody had really noticed that Rain wasn’t around and she awkwardly climbed out of the bed so the dog wouldn’t bite her. I’m not sure if she was genuinely sleeping or just hiding. The way we all reacted and nervously laughed at her sudden appearance made the cops think there had to be at least one other person. Vanessa said somebody had gone to watch Iron Man and they didn’t press the issue further. They were angry that their strategic gambit had failed and they’d ended up with nothing.

They asked us if we were “following the rainbow”.

I want to throw in that earlier in the night somebody had asked me what Iron Man was about and I told them it’s about a wealthy alcoholic who got hit by some shrapnel so he had to build armor to put around himself to make sure that nothing ever touches his heart. Some of it was the acid but I do really like how archetypical and basic those Marvel origin stories are. I’ve never actually seen the movie.

Finally the cops left and everybody got to do the thing where they’re like “oh shit! You’re tripping on drugs! Are you ok? Let’s go get our friend who’s tripping on drugs!” We walked over behind the mall where Shon was riding his unicycle and listening to his iPod and just generally appeared to have gotten a handle on things. We told him that the cops had been real but now they were gone and we could safely bring him back to the bus where he could lay back and talk about how hard he was tripping to his heart’s content.

I was still “on” meaning I was aware of and sensitive to things I might have missed in an unaltered state. I could feel the town’s disapproving hostility radiating out toward us from the streets, trees and sky. People were clearly aware that we had broken into an imaginary house and the cops hadn’t been able to do anything about it and they wanted justice. A red pick-up truck slowed and rolled down it’s window.

This was it – every muscle in my body tensed up for the coming confrontation. A voice drawled out from the dark interior:

You fuckers…”

The window went back up and the truck sped off. Clearly the small town in West Virginia had done it’s worst.

I’m pretty sure we were going to be okay.

Next Part:

https://zerstyrschonheit.home.blog/2023/01/22/new-york-2008-the-bus-we-know-when-were-not-wanted/

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