Wow, I really haven’t written anything in a while. I’ve been struggling with this three part piece that isn’t really coming out the way I imagined it and isn’t done yet. It goes into the sort of thing I’ve mostly been avoiding writing about, like sex and relationship stuff, but that isn’t what it’s really about. I think I’m still struggling to understand what it actually is fundamentally about.
I’m sure I’ll finish it and put it up eventually but it’ll probably be a while.
Anyway I decided to just write some more stories about when I worked at this Italian coffee bar called Trattoria Monterotondo. I just read back over some older pieces to see how much I had written about this place already and it turned out to be hardly anything. Sometimes I worry that I’m losing the thread and my earlier pieces had a quality that my new ones lack but then I go back and read some and they’re all full of typos and really short.
It’s fine, everything’s good for something even if that thing is only being thrown in a corner because it isn’t good for anything; if that makes sense. There was a show last night that I helped set up but I got there so late that I only saw the touring band and then had to leave immediately to run errands. I would have felt really bad if it was only sparsely attended but there was a decent crowd and they probably made good gas money so I feel a medium amount of bad.
I hope Ivory Daze made it up to Eugene okay, their van was apparently starting to overheat when it goes up hills and it’s uphill the whole way there and today was really hot. I was reading today about the “Faustian Bargain” where the aerosols from human economic activity actually have a globally cooling effect because they reflect some of the sun’s rays and as soon as we stop creating air pollution it will suddenly get a lot hotter really, really fast.
That sounds perfectly awful but it must be good for something too. Maybe the extreme heat will make it easier to breed lots and lots of insects like crickets in shoeboxes with bits of egg carton in them like you’re supposed to do when you keep small reptiles or amphibians as pets. It’s not like there will be anything else to eat.
Ok, the Trattoria Monterotondo place. I mentioned in the earlier piece that the owner and my boss, Papa Giovanni Moratti, was a giant asshole but I only really talked about him being the fun kind of asshole like refusing to let uppity customers buy his approval with money. To make things really clear he was a racist homophobic antisemitic womanizer shady businessman kind of asshole too.
That part wasn’t always as fun. If you’ve ever seen The Simpsons episode where an old Italian character says he can’t speak Italian but only broken English that was basically the deal with Papa. I’ve taken Linguistics classes now so I have a better grasp of how language fossilization works – basically when a person acquires a new language as an adult they will hit a point where they stop improving and just mispronounce things and forget words that they need to use all the time forever.
Somewhere along the line he must have forgotten how to speak Italian too because sometimes other Italians would come in and try to speak it with him and he obviously couldn’t. Every week I would help him write down a shopping list and he’d always say to write down “silver things” and I’d tell him it’s aluminum foil and the next week he’d say “silver things” again. He told me to go outside and feed the birds in the same way every day:
“Go feed your bird your pidge.”
Anyway that’s probably enough of his charming and harmless catch phrases. Here’s another thing he was fond of repeating:
“We have three rule here: No Jew. No Black. No Gay.”
Sometimes he would throw something in about how he knew I was Jewish but it was all right because he was teaching me how to be better or some crap like that. I know that sort of thing would probably piss a lot of people off but it’s always been like water off a duck’s back for me. It’s entirely possible that the only reason he hired me in the first place was to get one over on the Jewish owner of the furniture store I’d been working at around the corner.
It is what it is.
Everything about his hole in the wall coffee bar was some kind of flex. He had made a ton of money in the ‘70s and ‘80s with a store down the street that sold cheap Turkish knockoffs of Italian designer goods and now he just wanted to show off, have fun and waste it. When I first started working there the main flex was to make the little patch of sidewalk in front of his shop look as elaborate as possible.
Every day we would drag out a table, some chairs, a few planters, an assortment of statuary and a fully functional stone fountain that we put live goldfish in. They only lived inside a bowl on one of the shelves at night and died a lot because of how much they were constantly moved and handled but he kept buying more. If all of this doesn’t sound preposterous enough the main purpose of this tiny pocket of paradise was to tell 90% of his potential customers that everything was takeout only and they couldn’t sit there and it was “members only”.
I guess it was kind of like the concept of a “spite shop” on Curb Your Enthusiasm except that this spite was directed at the world in general instead of a neighboring business. Not that he didn’t have plenty of spite for a neighboring business. I’ll get to that.
This whole tableaux took us at least an hour to set up every day and another hour to pack back up again and it was heavy and most days nobody was ever allowed to sit there. So one day we are in the midst of either dragging out or packing up the heaviest part, the fountain, and a very Black and very gay man dressed in a speedo and sunglasses comes rollerblading down the sidewalk and does a flawless little twirl in Papa’s face before disappearing around the corner.
Papa wiped the sweat from his forehead with the folded little towel that was always stylishly draped over his shoulder and turns to me and says in a tone of total resignation:
“What can you do?”
I don’t think I actually said it but my immediate thought was “I guess you can tell me what you want to do and I can tell you if you can do it or not.” Anyway I think I have a pretty good idea of the sort of thing he wanted to do and thankfully, he couldn’t do it. Now that I think about it that dismissive twirl must have done a pretty good job deflating him – it wasn’t that long afterwards that the fountain disappeared and his new flex turned into flying in gelato from Italy even though it would have been cheaper and smarter to just make it.
One of the statues that we set up everyday was a cement donkey pointed at a nearby business on the corner of Clark Street to “frighten the Marrochini.” It was a fairly successful French Restaurant owned by a pair of brothers from Morocco and I guess donkeys are some kind of negative stereotype for that country in Italy. He would refer to them as “used donkey salesmen” and spread baseless rumors about the cleanliness of their kitchen to his fan club.
At some point he made up a story that they were coming and peeking through his window at night to try to learn how to emulate Italian cuisine. This was especially laughable because nothing in our shop was even made there with the exception of a couple weeks that he did paninis – everything else was brought in from off site. The Moroccan guys always dressed well and made a point of going out of their way to greet Papa with some well curated polite contempt.
I used to chat with one of the waitresses that worked over there because we both wore white belts. It was pretty trendy in the circa 2000 hardcore landscape but I never saw her at Fireside shows or anything. Papa was obsessed with trying to get us to hook up but it wasn’t really like that. Her name was Sonia.
Playing matchmaker was a thing he was actually pretty obsessed with with his fan club of neighborhood yuppie transplants but I can’t think of any instances where it was actually successful. He had me write up a poster for his imaginary dating service at some point with a lot of coded wording about the “right kind of people” – basically trying to say no Jews and everybody had to be white.
Out of the group of much younger women that he was always trying to set up with his male regulars he arbitrarily decided one was “his” and tried to make a move on her. When she was less than receptive to his advances he quickly turned a cold shoulder and stopped talking to her entirely. That night he loudly complained about the situation:
“All God damn bitches! Papa wants to fuck too!”
The whole referring to himself in the third person thing was especially creepy but he didn’t do it too often. He just wasn’t particularly interested in names. The entire time I worked there he never bothered to learn mine – he either called me “boy” or “Tom Croo” because he thought my unibrow made me look the famous actor whose name he would have been pronouncing if he ever bothered with the final “s”.
She did not take getting kicked out of his imaginary club very well. She showed up the next day crying and begged me to tell her how to get back in his good graces – if she could maybe give him some kind of food or flowers. What could I tell her? You could throw away your dignity and pity fuck an old bald man you aren’t attracted to but I wouldn’t. When somebody tells you who they are what can you do but listen?
My own relationship status and his suspicions surrounding my supposed homosexuality became a bit more of a project for him. For the period of time that I worked there I was in an off and on situation with Robyn but she never came by the shop and he didn’t believe she existed. After his attempts to hook me up with Sonia from the restaurant down the block didn’t pan out he started hiring girls in their late teens or early twenties for the express purpose of trying to get them to sleep with me.
It only happened a couple of times but it was incredibly awkward. He was shamelessly transparent about the whole thing so I’d try to warn my new coworkers about the nature of the situation they had just found themselves in. I just remember the second girl seeming incredibly suspicious and thinking that I was making the whole thing up as a ploy to actually get into her pants. When nothing happened after a couple of days he fired her and said she smelled like marijuana.
Now that I’m typing this part up I’m getting flashbacks of Karen Centerfold in Los Angeles who also had a cartoonishly obvious habit of trying to get random girls to fuck me. I’ll have to write more about Karen somewhere else later but I most remember her yelling:
“You know what the problem with all you stuck up bitches is? You all want to fuck surfers with big dicks but you won’t do it because you’re too scared!”
Once again I wish I could somehow convey the actual voice. I don’t know what it is about me that all these characters seem to make it a personal crusade to get me laid but even my mother had a similar outlook. When I was about ten years old a family with a daughter close to my age from the commune was staying with us and all the grownups somehow thought it was a good idea to have her sleep in my bed with me.
I wasn’t old enough to get an erection or even know what one was but one of my aunts had just remarried and evidently not been very discreet because the next time I saw my cousin she showed me how to play a game called “honeymoon”. Me and the commune girl went through some of the same motions once all the grownups had gone to sleep.
After that my mom would periodically give me random updates about this girl’s life. Last I heard she became a ballet dancer. Hippy families are weird.
Back to Papa’s spot – it was during the time I worked there that I started injecting heroin and eventually cocaine but Papa took all the evidence of a drug problem and explained it away to himself as a “gay problem”. I would roll in looking haggard after a sleepless night, even taking a final shot in a Port-a-Potty a few blocks down the road, and this would be his response the moment he laid eyes on me:
“What’s wrong boy? Partying all night with the happy boys on Broadway?”
His accusation referred to the popular street in Chicago’s Boy’s Town district – coincidentally I had just moved into an apartment there. I wanted to keep my job and figured he wouldn’t take kindly to the actual causes of my current condition so I parroted sarcastic assent:
“You got me Papa, I just can’t resist those gay discos…”
It was around this time that his “private club” started to include a crew of wise guy Italian cops from the neighborhood. They’d hang around the one outside table most nights and he’d give them some food and booze they were perfectly happy to drink on duty. There was a big story in Chicago around that time about a bunch of cocaine mysteriously disappearing from a police evidence locker and for some reason it came up in conversation.
“Yeah! Wanna buy some? Ha ha ha ha!”
Typical Chicago cop humor…
I didn’t live too far away, this was in the Red House near DePaul University era, and I figured it was only a matter of time until one of them recognized me going into Cabrini Greene or something. It either didn’t happen or if they did see me they kept it to themselves. I wouldn’t be surprised if half of them were into the same shit. One night Papa obliviously made the comment:
“Isn’t it great boy? All the cops in the neighborhood know your face now!”
Yeah, just wonderful…
I said before that we didn’t make any food there but around that time we were putting together cannolis. This fat cop that the other one’s called Shrek, the first movie had just come out, was always asking me for them:
“You want a cannoli huh? How about I bring you the one with a big fat red strawberry on the end? You want me to dip it in chocolate for you?”
We did in fact have cannolis with strawberries on the end that were dipped in chocolate but I was taking advantage of an opportunity to make stupid jokes about sodomizing him and getting him to perform fellatio on me. In my defense it was a reversal of the usual power dynamic where I was constantly getting harassed by different Chicago cops in my other life as an injection drug user. The other cops were happy for any opportunity to make Shrek the butt of a joke and he licked his lips and clowned it up the way submissive abused Chicago cops always seem to.
Papa was very particular about the coffee we’d be willing to make for anybody. We did straight espressos and cappuccinos or macchiatos but if anyone dared to ask for an americano he’d yell at them to “go to Sewerbucks!”. One afternoon somebody must have asked him for some kind of vanilla something because the moment I walked in he was excited for me to make a coffee menu for the window that listed “Café Milanesi Finnochio”
It basically translates to “faggot coffee of Milan”. His big plan was that if anybody else ever asked for some kind of flavored coffee beverage we were supposed to point to this item on the menu and make them order it by name. He even bought some kind of CostCo vanilla cappuccino mix to complete his little joke. It never actually happened.
I’ve covered him being all the different kind of assholes I listed earlier except for the shady businessman one. He had a refrigerator full of cans of Sprite and one day somebody looked at the bottom of a can and noticed it was expired. You’d think he would have just thrown the rest of them away because we had plenty of orange and lemon San Pellegrino but that’s not what he did.
He had me fill a sink with hot water and soak all the cans of soda in it so I could scrub away the expiration dates with steel wool. Soaking the Sprites in scalding water probably did more to mess up the flavor then the expiration part but it mostly seemed pointless because hardly anyone ever asked for it to begin with. He pointed to the printed expiration dates:
“Just for decoration anyway…”
It was his little phrase he’d use any time he thought he was being sneaky. He said the exact same thing when he had me write out a paper that said “I am responsible for paying my own tax” because the job was under the table. Maybe he’d gotten caught up in some kind of situation with tax evasion in the past but it was never an issue when I worked there – the cops were in our pocket.
The bigger thing was that he constantly and carelessly lied about the nature of the food he sold and where it had come from:
“Everything made fresh today!”
“Everything 100% fat free sugar free!”
Neither of these things were true for anything except for maybe a shot of espresso. He would get cookies delivered from some bakery that would sit in the pastry case for weeks until he’d sold them all. Frozen pasta entrees sat in freezers for months. The pizzas and focaccias were delivered on a daily basis so at least the fresh part was true for those.
We’d get diabetics who were excited about the sugar thing and I’d have to wait until he was out of earshot to tell them that of course it wasn’t true and honestly you couldn’t trust a word out of his mouth. With all of these lies it would have made perfect sense for him to be lying about the gelato being flown in from Italy but that part was actually true. I saw the weird frozen customs cases it came in.
Like I said everything with him was a flex. He liked lying about where various things around the shop had come from too.
“This was Al Capone’s Espresso Machine!”
“This was Mussolini’s bicycle!”
Really pointless little lies. He’d tell his fan club we had a hot tub on the roof and some of them seemed to believe it.
Besides the Marrochini thing I didn’t see too much of him being racist right to people’s faces but this was probably because the Black folks in the neighborhood had already had bad interactions with him and kept their distance. There is a story on Yelp! about a family realizing that the reason he wouldn’t sell them gelato was because they weren’t white. He didn’t outright turn away nonwhite customers for to go orders when I worked there – he’d just say “your department” and have me wait on them.
Honestly things weren’t too different at the furniture store. Besides Yvonne, who was Black herself, most of my coworkers there would blatantly ignore Black customers and pretend they didn’t exist. In a city like Chicago you would almost say Papa’s candid honesty was refreshing but then there was the thing he yelled at the television during a Michael Jordan interview:
“God damn black gorilla! I hate!”
I was getting sloppier from the drugs so eventually he fired me. I forget what specific thing set him off but he shook his finger at me and bellowed in rage:
“Number one you punk! Number two you Jew! Number three you gay!”
At least he got two out of three. It was fun while it lasted. I assume he’s probably dead by now.